CAV-GRIP III Dos and Don'ts
July 9, 2019
CAV-GRIP III Low-VOC Adhesive is an optimal choice when you’re installing fully adhered EPDM or TPO roofing systems. This low-odor adhesive requires minimal setup time, dries fast, and can be applied quickly and accurately. Plus, its long “open time” makes it a prime candidate for projects utilizing larger sheets.

Like anything else, there are dos and don’ts associated with using CAV-GRIP III. Check out these guidelines to ensure a proper, headache-free installation.

DO
Keep replacement tips handy – CAV-GRIP III spray guns have brass tips which achieve the optimal spray pattern. However, a clogged or damaged tip can negatively affect spray capabilities and result in wasted adhesive. To ensure that a damaged tip won’t delay your progress, it’s a good idea keep a bag of replacement tips handy.

Use a splitter – Consider using a splitter if you’re working with the larger 85 lb. cylinders. Splitters allow you to attach two hoses to one tank, which can double productivity.

Store properly – Store CAV-GRIP III cylinders in a protected, conditioned space with temperatures above 70°F prior to and during application. If CAV-GRIP is stored below the 70-degree mark, you’ll have to wait for it to warm up before application. If a cylinder is below the minimum temperature, it will produce an intermittent spray or “sputter” when it is used. TIP: try warming the product up before checking to see if your gun or hose are clogged.

Secure all cylinders
– Make sure you properly secure cylinders (regardless of whether they’re full, partially full, or empty) so they can’t roll off the roof.

Use the right gun for the situation
– The CAV-GRIP III Spray Gun with Extension Wand is perfect for wide-open roof areas, while the regular CAV-GRIP III Spray Gun (without the extension wand) is ideal for tight or confined areas.

Keep the gun moving
– Keep the spray gun moving while you’re spraying the adhesive to avoid thick or puddled areas.

Adjust your technique if necessary
– While you’re spraying, you may need to adjust the distance between the gun and the substrate to attain the proper coverage rate. In windy conditions, control the amount of trigger pull to ensure a proper web pattern is achieved and to prevent adhesive from being blown away.

Clean up
– You can reuse your guns and hoses over and over again if you keep them clean. First, completely depressurize the cylinder. Disconnect the gun and hose assembly and immediately attach it to a canister of Low-VOC UN-TACK™. Pull the trigger and allow the UN-TACK to flow through the hose and gun for five to ten seconds, or until the liquid coming out is clear. Depressurize the UN-TACK, remove the assembly, and store for future use.

DON'T

Don’t wipe adhesive off the spray tip – Immediately after spraying CAV-GRIP III, you may see adhesive buildup on the tip of the spray gun. The installer’s first reaction is often to wipe away this residue with a rag; however, doing this forces cured adhesive back into the tip orifice, leading to improper spray patterns and ultimately a clogged gun. Instead, allow the adhesive to thicken on the tip and peel away the buildup when you’re ready to spray again.

Don’t shake
– Unlike Carlisle’s Flexible FAST™ Dual Tank Adhesive, you do not need to shake the CAV-GRIP III cylinder prior to application. Shaking the cylinder will disrupt the adhesive and result in the loss of propellant, which is vital to achieving the expected 1,000 ft2 coverage rate per cylinder in a two-sided application.

Don’t tilt
– Don’t tilt the cylinder or lay it on its side while applying adhesive. Doing so will result in air pockets within the gun and hose assembly which could affect the spray pattern and reduce your coverage rate.

Don’t mishandle
– CAV-GRIP cylinders are pressured tanks and must be handled with care. Treat cylinders more like a propane torch set and less like a pail of standard bonding adhesive, both on and off the jobsite.

Don’t overspray
– Don’t apply adhesive to splices to be hot-air welded or areas where primer and pressure-sensitive tape will be applied. If overspray occurs, use Weathered Membrane Cleaner or commercial-grade duct tape to remove it.

Don’t install membrane too soon
– Don’t install membrane over wet or puddled CAV-GRIP III. Doing so will trap solvents between the membrane and substrate, causing “solvent bubbles”. Allow the adhesive about three to five minutes to set up, or become tacky, before installing membrane.

Don’t use band heaters in cold weather
– Band heaters can reach temperatures of more than 400° F, which can cause over-pressurization inside the cylinder and lead to a valve failure and loss of product. Instead, try power-heated blankets and/or hot boxes when necessary.

Don’t let a disconnected hose sit around
– Adhesive can cure inside the hose or gun, causing it to sputter or become blocked. When switching a hose and gun assembly from one cylinder to another, make sure both cylinders are sitting side-by-side during the change. Shut the empty tank off, point the wand into a trash bag, and pull the trigger to empty all excess adhesive out of the hose and gun. Then, unhook the hose from the empty tank and immediately hook it up to a new cylinder.

Don’t punch a hole through the side of the tank when the tank is under pressure
– Once the hose is removed, open the tank back up slightly to relieve excess pressure. From there, punch a hole through the designated area and properly dispose of the tank.

Additional Resources
Request Free Trials 
CAV GRIP III Low-VOC Adhesive/Primer Product Data Sheet 
CAV GRIP III Low-VOC Adhesive/Primer Accessories Product Data Sheet
CAV GRIP III Application Video
CAV-GRIP III Time Trial Video

For technical assistance, or for more information on CAV-GRIP III, please contact Ryan Ferguson.


    Ryan Ferguson
    EPDM Product Specialist
    Product Marketing
    [email protected]

January 14, 2020
CAV-GRIP III in Cold Weather: Best Practices

As mother nature's cold hands grip much of the continent, many roofing contractors are forced close up shop until winter surrenders to spring. For many contractors, the onset of cold weather means delayed progress, but that mentality is changing. Carlisle's focus on innovation has resulted in new products that make cold weather installations more manageable. One product leading the pack is CAV-GRIP® III Low-VOC Adhesive, which can be installed in temperatures as low as 25°F (-4°C)! Like other adhesives, there are guidelines to follow when using CAV-GRIP III in cold weather. Here is some advice to live by: STORAGE: Whether at a distributor's shop or on the jobsite, CAV-GRIP III should ALWAYS be stored in protected, heated spaces with the temperature maintained above 70°F (21°C). Adhesive can thicken or gel when exposed to colder temperatures for an extended period. When reheating with a heated blanket or hot box, it can take hours to thoroughly heat the contents and re-liquify. It is recommended to reheat for 12-24 hours prior to use. If the spray gun is spitting, sputtering, or clogging, it is a good indication you've got cold material. GUARD AGAINST HEAT SINKS: A "heat sink" is a material or surface that absorbs heat from surrounding objects. Place cylinders on insulation to avoid direct contact with a cold steel or concrete decks. These surfaces will act as a heat sink, rapidly cooling the cylinders. HOT BOXES AND HEAT BLANKETS: Shop-fabricated or manufactured hot boxes and heated blankets are required to keep CAV-GRIP III above 70°F (21°C) when working in colder temperatures. Do not use band heaters due to risks associated with overheating a pressurized cylinder. Devising a way to insulate and heat the hoses also aids in keeping the adhesive warm and spraying properly. Removing cylinders from the cardboard box will aid in heat transfer. ROTATION: It's a good idea to preheat cylinders to 90°F (32°C) as a safety factor against wind chill. Rotate cold tanks into a hot box and replace with heated cylinders. SHAKE CYLINDERS TO AGITATE CONTENTS: Shaking cylinders is a good way to avoid settling of contents and to maintain spray pressure. SPRAYING ISSUES OR GUN CLOGGING: If the spray tip begins to spit, sputter, or clog entirely, there are two main culprits: 1. COLD MATERIAL - Clean the gun and hose from the problem cylinder with Low-VOC UN-TACK prior to attaching to a new, warm cylinder after it has been shaken. 2. CLOGGED SPRAY TIP - If spraying stops, remove the brass spray tip and spray the adhesive into a garbage bag. If the adhesive flows through the wand in a straight stream with no hesitation, then the tank is still functional (assuming it's warm). Simply clean or replace the brass tip and begin spraying again. For more information, please contact your regional manager.     Ryan Ferguson     EPDM Product Specialist     Product Marketing     [email protected]

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December 23, 2019
Installation Tips for Pressure-Sensitive Elastoform Products

STORAGE: Heat exposure is what causes Pressure-Sensitive Elastoform Flashing® (PSEF) to cure on the roof after installation, so storing all your PSEF in a cool place will maximize its shelf life. Carlisle performed an experiment where Sure-White® Corners were refrigerated for 18 months and they were still uncured and usable. Pretty "cool" for a product with a 6-month shelf life! HEAT: Want to make your PSEF easy to work with? Use a heat gun to warm the flashing prior to installation in colder weather. Always heat Sure-White PSEF even in the warmer months. Rule of thumb; store cool and install warm! INSTALLATION: Speaking of forming corners, the PSEF stretches and forms better when the elongated diamond pattern is installed parallel to the deck membrane. Additionally, it helps to use the poly film as a separator when folding the corner in half to prevent the exposed tape edges from sticking to each other. POURABLE SEALER POCKETS: One of the biggest mistakes Carlisle encounters with Pourable Sealer Pockets is improperly applied or missing primer. It is very important to prime the flashing that is turned down into the pocket, as well as the flashing on the top rim of the pocket. Primer is necessary to achieve a long-term bond between Pourable Sealer and PSEF. If separation is present, it's likely that primer application was missed. It is also important and necessary to thoroughly clean and prime penetrations prior to filling pockets with pourable sealer. OUTSIDE CORNERS: Double-wrapping outside corners is a great idea on ballasted systems, especially if the base membrane isn't cut perfectly tight to the curb. PSEF needs to have a solid surface beneath it for long-term performance. If an additional layer of PSEF is installed to eliminate voids at outside corners, the corner flashing will be better able to withstand movement from expansion/contraction forces and will be less likely to develop a hole than if a single layer of PSEF is used. LAP SEALANT: All PSEF requires Lap Sealant to be applied and feathered over the entire splice edge. Please contact your Regional Manager with questions     Ron Goodman     EPDM Product Manager     Product Marketing     [email protected]

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November 26, 2019
Seam Probing

Seam probing is an important final step in the hot air welding process because it is a good indicator to determine if proper fusion has occurred between the membrane layers. Whether the membrane is TPO or PVC, both products need to be probed – but with slightly different techniques. Probing must be done once hot air welds have thoroughly cooled (at least 20 minutes). Premature probing can damage warm seams. Hot air welded seams must be probed throughout the day to check seam quality and to make proper adjustments to hot air welding equipment. The repair of deficiencies must be done routinely throughout the day, but no later than the end of each workday. A blunt or dull cotter pin puller is an acceptable tool to perform the probing task. Carlisle offers a custom-designed Seam Probe that incorporates an ergonomic, threaded handle with a heat-treated, plated steel tip. With continued use these tools will wear down, creating a tip that is too sharp for probing. Blunting the tip is necessary when this occurs. When a substantial amount of probing is necessary, an extension pole can be threaded into the handle of the Carlisle probe. This allows the operator to stand up while probing long runs of field seams. Getting started: Draw your probing tool tip along the edge of the heat welded seam. Apply firm pressure to probe the seam junction, but not into the bottom membrane sheet. The tool will not penetrate into the lap area of a properly welded seam. If the seam probing tool penetrates into the welded overlap area, use a water-soluble marker to mark the beginning and the end of voids or wrinkles in the seam edge. Repair seam deficiencies as soon as possible using the hand held welder. Carlisle recommends that repairs be made the same day deficiencies are discovered. Probe repaired seams after they have cooled completely. If the repair is acceptable, wipe off the water-soluble marker lines; if not acceptable, repair the seam using standard heat welded overlay procedures. Another reason all laps must be probed each day soon after they have cooled is to verify the welder set-up is effective. Particular attention must be given to all membrane intersections and heat welded seams at insulation joints. In addition, there should be periodic checks (including at the start of each day) to verify good peel strength. Considerations when probing TPO systems: TPO does not "flow" like PVC. If you observe an area in which you see "flow" of the bottom ply, scorched areas of detail/flashing membrane, or scorched field membrane welds, these areas should be probed. If these areas are overheated to the point of membrane damage, an overlay repair will be required even if the weld probes successfully. A properly heated field membrane weld will typically have a visual "sheen" approximately 1/2" wide on the bottom sheet at the weld overlap. When walking seams, look for the sheen. If it is not present, probe to ensure weld quality. TPO seams require a minimum 1.5" weld. Welds less than 1.5" must be overlaid as stated in Carlisle’s specifications and details, even if probing does not produce deficiencies. Considerations when probing PVC systems: Welds on PVC systems should produce "bleed out". Bleed out refers to the flow of the bottom ply (of the top sheet) outside of the weld. If you do not see bleed out at seam areas, this increases the probability the seam did not receive enough heat when it was welded. Be sure to probe these areas to ensure weld quality. PVC is a “softer” and more flexible membrane than TPO. As such, a different probe should be used than the one used on TPO roofing systems. The PVC probe should have a blunt/dull tip, or utilize a "hook" screwdriver with a flat head. PVC seams require a minimum 1.5" weld. If you observe welds which are less than 1.5", these should be overlaid following specifications and details, even if probing does not produce deficiencies. Remember, application of Cut Edge Sealant should not begin until all probing is completed. Please contact Jim Gage with questions.     Jim Gage     Senior Technical Specialist     Product Marketing     [email protected]

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