Storage of Materials During Inclement Weather
April 16, 2019
When storing roofing materials prior to install, it is important to remember most roofing materials are not designed to be stored in cold or inclement weather conditions; especially when ambient temperatures dip below 40°F. Membranes, adhesives, equipment, and contractors will perform differently in colder or inclement weather - so planning and considering how the inclement weather will impact material storage, installation time, and quality is critical.

Membrane: Storing roofing membrane at the job site during warm months is straightforward: keep the rolls off the ground (on pallets), and protect them from moisture by using breathable, waterproof tarpaulins. In inclement weather, temperatures could grow colder - the dew point and temperature come closer together; increasing the potential for condensation and frost forming on materials; and storms/winds become more frequent. Keep roofing materials warm and dry by storing them inside a conditioned space or in a heated job trailer. Keeping materials warm and dry will reduce the risk of moisture being introduced into the roof system during construction, and minimize the possibility of deficiencies in the completed roof system. In addition, material rolls will become more rigid as they get colder, requiring additional time to kick out and relax the membrane before installing. In wet or windy conditions, make sure the roof membrane rolls are covered with a breathable-waterproof tarp and that the tarpaulins are secured to prevent wind damage and/or displacement such as with a pallet or bands. Please note that flashings must be heated prior to application, regardless of the season. When these products are heated until warm to the touch, they will be much easier to install, particularly when flashing corners and irregular shapes.

Adhesives/Pressure-Sensitive Products: When dealing with membrane adhesives, there are generally two main categories to consider: solvent-based and waterborne adhesives. Recently, the use of waterborne adhesives has been growing steadily because of low-odor and VOC code requirements. Both types of adhesives have similar manufacturer recommendations for storage temperature, typically between 60° and 80°F. Adhesives, primers, or pressure-sensitive products can be stored at temperatures below 60°F, but must be restored to between 60°-80°F prior to application for best results. When ambient temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F for an extended period, a heated enclosure or hot box is strongly recommended for jobsite storage. This applies to pressure-sensitive products as well.

Insulation: Polyisocyanurate or polystyrene insulation is typically shipped protected by a plastic wrap, plastic bag, or both. This factory packaging is intended for handling the polyisocyanurate in the manufacturing plant and during transit; it should not be relied upon as protection at jobsites or other outdoor storage locations, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer.

To ensure insulation is properly protected in inclement weather, follow these steps:
  1. Store bundles flat and upright with the bottom of the bundles elevated (2” or more) above a finished surface -preferably gravel, pavement, or concrete - rather than on dirt or grass.
  2. Slit the bundle packaging vertically down the center of the two short sides to prevent moisture accumulation within the package.
  3. Completely cover the bundle with a waterproof tarp and secure to prevent wind damage and/or displacement, such as a pallet.
Following these steps as outlined above will increase the success and longevity of the roofing materials. For more information about storage of materials in inclement weather, please contact John Greko.

    John Greko
    PVC Product Manager
    Product Marketing
    [email protected]
July 9, 2019
CAV-GRIP III Dos and Don'ts

CAV-GRIP™ III Low-VOC Adhesive is an optimal choice when you’re installing fully adhered EPDM or TPO roofing systems. This low-odor adhesive requires minimal setup time, dries fast, and can be applied quickly and accurately. Plus, its long “open time” makes it a prime candidate for projects utilizing larger sheets. Like anything else, there are dos and don’ts associated with using CAV-GRIP III. Check out these guidelines to ensure a proper, headache-free installation. DO Keep replacement tips handy – CAV-GRIP III spray guns have brass tips which achieve the optimal spray pattern. However, a clogged or damaged tip can negatively affect spray capabilities and result in wasted adhesive. To ensure that a damaged tip won’t delay your progress, it’s a good idea keep a bag of replacement tips handy. Use a splitter – Consider using a splitter if you’re working with the larger 85 lb. cylinders. Splitters allow you to attach two hoses to one tank, which can double productivity. Store properly – Store CAV-GRIP III cylinders in a protected, conditioned space with temperatures above 70°F prior to and during application. If CAV-GRIP is stored below the 70-degree mark, you’ll have to wait for it to warm up before application. If a cylinder is below the minimum temperature, it will produce an intermittent spray or “sputter” when it is used. TIP: try warming the product up before checking to see if your gun or hose are clogged. Secure all cylinders – Make sure you properly secure cylinders (regardless of whether they’re full, partially full, or empty) so they can’t roll off the roof. Use the right gun for the situation – The CAV-GRIP III Spray Gun with Extension Wand is perfect for wide-open roof areas, while the regular CAV-GRIP III Spray Gun (without the extension wand) is ideal for tight or confined areas. Keep the gun moving – Keep the spray gun moving while you’re spraying the adhesive to avoid thick or puddled areas. Adjust your technique if necessary – While you’re spraying, you may need to adjust the distance between the gun and the substrate to attain the proper coverage rate. In windy conditions, control the amount of trigger pull to ensure a proper web pattern is achieved and to prevent adhesive from being blown away. Clean up – You can reuse your guns and hoses over and over again if you keep them clean. First, completely depressurize the cylinder. Disconnect the gun and hose assembly and immediately attach it to a canister of Low-VOC UN-TACK™. Pull the trigger and allow the UN-TACK to flow through the hose and gun for five to ten seconds, or until the liquid coming out is clear. Depressurize the UN-TACK, remove the assembly, and store for future use. DON'T Don’t wipe adhesive off the spray tip – Immediately after spraying CAV-GRIP III, you may see adhesive buildup on the tip of the spray gun. The installer’s first reaction is often to wipe away this residue with a rag; however, doing this forces cured adhesive back into the tip orifice, leading to improper spray patterns and ultimately a clogged gun. Instead, allow the adhesive to thicken on the tip and peel away the buildup when you’re ready to spray again. Don’t shake – Unlike Carlisle’s Flexible FAST™ Dual Tank Adhesive, you do not need to shake the CAV-GRIP III cylinder prior to application. Shaking the cylinder will disrupt the adhesive and result in the loss of propellant, which is vital to achieving the expected 1,000 ft2 coverage rate per cylinder in a two-sided application. Don’t tilt – Don’t tilt the cylinder or lay it on its side while applying adhesive. Doing so will result in air pockets within the gun and hose assembly which could affect the spray pattern and reduce your coverage rate. Don’t mishandle – CAV-GRIP cylinders are pressured tanks and must be handled with care. Treat cylinders more like a propane torch set and less like a pail of standard bonding adhesive, both on and off the jobsite. Don’t overspray – Don’t apply adhesive to splices to be hot-air welded or areas where primer and pressure-sensitive tape will be applied. If overspray occurs, use Weathered Membrane Cleaner or commercial-grade duct tape to remove it. Don’t install membrane too soon – Don’t install membrane over wet or puddled CAV-GRIP III. Doing so will trap solvents between the membrane and substrate, causing “solvent bubbles”. Allow the adhesive about three to five minutes to set up, or become tacky, before installing membrane. Don’t use band heaters in cold weather – Band heaters can reach temperatures of more than 400° F, which can cause over-pressurization inside the cylinder and lead to a valve failure and loss of product. Instead, try power-heated blankets and/or hot boxes when necessary. Don’t let a disconnected hose sit around – Adhesive can cure inside the hose or gun, causing it to sputter or become blocked. When switching a hose and gun assembly from one cylinder to another, make sure both cylinders are sitting side-by-side during the change. Shut the empty tank off, point the wand into a trash bag, and pull the trigger to empty all excess adhesive out of the hose and gun. Then, unhook the hose from the empty tank and immediately hook it up to a new cylinder. Don’t punch a hole through the side of the tank when the tank is under pressure – Once the hose is removed, open the tank back up slightly to relieve excess pressure. From there, punch a hole through the designated area and properly dispose of the tank. Additional Resources Request Free Trials  CAV GRIP III Low-VOC Adhesive/Primer Product Data Sheet  CAV GRIP III Low-VOC Adhesive/Primer Accessories Product Data Sheet CAV GRIP III Application Video CAV-GRIP III Time Trial Video For technical assistance, or for more information on CAV-GRIP III, please contact Ryan Ferguson.     Ryan Ferguson     EPDM Product Specialist     Product Marketing     [email protected]

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June 25, 2019
Welding TPO and PVC Coated Metal

Welding Carlisle’s coated metal is quick and easy if you follow a few simple guidelines. Here are some useful tips for your next Sure-Weld® TPO or Sure-Flex™ PVC Coated Metal installation. Product facts  Description: 24-gauge hot-dipped G90 galvanized steel sheeting with a layer of 35-mil non-reinforced TPO or PVC flashing laminated to one side Size: 4’ by 10’ Packaging: 10 or 25 sheets per pallet Standard colors: TPO – White, Tan, Gray, Bronze, Patina Green, Rock Brown, Terra Cotta, Slate Gray PVC – White, Tan, Gray Markings: The underside of each coated metal sheet is marked with “TPO” or “PVC”; these markings are repeated several times to avoid misidentification Shelf life: None IMPORTANT: TPO and PVC are not interchangeable and will not weld to each other Before you begin It is essential that the material is clean. The flat sheet goes through a few processes at the contractor’s metal shop, including shearing and breaking. When the metal is formed, it picks up dirt and contaminants that can negatively affect its weldability. The most common error associated with hot-air welding coated metal is the lack of proper cleaning. After the coated metal profiles are fastened into place on the roof and before you begin welding, clean with Weathered Membrane Cleaner (for TPO) or PVC and KEE HP Membrane Cleaner (for PVC and KEE HP). Pour the appropriate cleaner from a safety can onto an HP Splice Wipe or other natural fiber rag; then, wipe the metal with the wet cloth to make sure the entire area is clean. If there’s a heavy buildup of dirt, you may need to use a Primer Pad to remove it. When working with cleaners, remember to wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including safety glasses and permeation-resistant gloves that meet ANSI/ISEA 105-2005. Make sure the underside of the membrane being welded to the coated metal is also cleaned. Allow at least 10 to 15 minutes for the solvents in the cleaner to flash off the surfaces you’ll be welding. Heat welder setup When setting up your heat welder, you must consider the thickness of the membrane you’re welding to the coated metal. An 80-mil membrane will require more heat than a 45- or 50-mil membrane. Start the process with the hand welder at the number 7 or 8 setting. Because the 35-mil TPO or PVC film is laminated to the metal, it remains robust during the welding process and will accept more heat without distortion. Welding coated metal to membrane Start the welding process by building an air dam parallel to the rear edge of the metal. This will trap the heat and ensure it isn’t lost under the membrane. Using a hand welder and a 2” neoprene roller, weld the membrane to the coated metal, then roll in a perpendicular motion. Check your welds To check for proper fusion, weld a strip of membrane to a scrap piece of coated metal. Once your weld has cooled, pull the membrane until failure. Proper fusion has occurred if the membrane delaminates from itself, leaving the bottom ply welded to the film, or if the membrane tears when you try to pull it off the coated metal. For more information on securement requirements and instructions on how to address metal end joints, follow detail U-1B. Please contact Jim Gage with questions.     Jim Gage     Senior Technical Specialist     Product Marketing     [email protected]

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June 11, 2019
Flashing Options for Every Detail

Carlisle offers three different types of Sure-Seal® Pressure-Sensitive (PS) flashings to address the variety of details found on any given roof. All three feature the proven weatherability of EPDM and come with 30-mil of Pressure-Sensitive (PS) SecurTape™ to create a watertight seal. The primary difference among the three is the amount of cure in the rubber, and the process used to manufacture them. PS Elastoform – often called “uncured” flashing – is used to flash irregularly-shaped objects or details with multiple angle changes. The uncured state of the flashing allows the rubber to be formed and stretched into place without reverting to its original shape like cured rubber. The flashing formulation is designed to cure on the roof with exposure to heat. Since it is necessary to limit heat exposure in the manufacturing process; to keep the product uncured; Carlisle requires all edges to be lap sealed. This prevents water from getting between the flashing ply and the tape ply while the material cures on the roof. T-joints, corners, and pockets are all made from Elastoform flashing – which has a 9-month shelf life. PS Overlayment Strip – often called “semi-cured” flashing – utilizes the same Elastoform flashing formulation, but is semi-cured with heat during the manufacturing process. The overlayment strip has the dark black look of uncured flashing, but is 70% cured in order to add tear resistance for stripping in metal edging or end laps. PS Overlayment Strip is packaged without the diamond pattern film, as it is removed during the semi-curing process. This is an easy way to tell the difference between PS Overlayment Strip and a roll of PS Elastoform. Due to the semi-cured nature of PS Overlayment strip, it can seal step-offs at splice intersections of 60-mil rubber without the need for T-joint covers. PS Overlayment Strip is better suited to strip-in seams than PS Elastoform, as it eliminates the need for lap sealant and T-joints. PS Cured Cover Strip is made with the same 60-mil non-reinforced membrane as Carlisle’s standard sheeting, and then laminated to 30-mil of SecurTape. This product is primarily used for stripping-in metal or end-laps and offers the same finished appearance as the field membrane. Due to the fully-cured nature and thickness of the product, T-Joints are required at splice intersections. Carlisle SynTec’s Sure-White® Pressure-Sensitive Flashing is available in Elastoform and cured cover strip options, and is approved for use on both EPDM and TPO roofing systems. Sure-White Elastoform has a more aggressive cure package to account for the fact that the white flashing will not gain as much heat naturally on the roof. This translates into a shorter shelf life of 6 months. Keeping white or black Elastoform flashing cool during long term storage will help to maximize the shelf life. Carlisle SynTec has all your flashing needs covered. For more information about pressure-sensitive flashing, please contact your Regional Technical Manager.     Ron Goodman     EPDM Product Manager     Product Marketing     [email protected]

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